Mount Rainier Summit via Emmons Glacier (Northeast Route)

SUMMIT DAY: July 18, 2017.

After summiting Mount Elbrus (the highest point in Europe) in June, I was determined to get to the top of Rainier. Last year in the early season our summit bid was canceled due to high avalanche danger above Disappointment Cleaver. Along with one climbing member from that trip, we were eight of us joined together to reach the summit via Emmons Glacier on the Northeast side of the mountain.

Day 1 July 14: Travel from NY JFK to Sea-Tac Airport in Washington. My flight was delayed by 2 hr and I had another 8 hr (originally 10) layover in Minneapolis. So, I decided to rent a car in Minneapolis and visit a few attractions there during my long layover. It also gave me the opportunity to pick up a few last min supplies from REI in Minneapolis. Once I reached Seattle I was picked up by a team member.

Waiting at JFK while my flight was delayed by 2 hr

Day 2 July 15: I car-pooled with two other climbing members from Seattle to White River Ranger Station where we met up with the rest of the team at 10 AM, picked up our climbing permits, etc. Later in the day we went for Snow School at the glacier above Glacier Basin Camp to brush up our glacier traveling skills including self arrest. We car camped at Wild River Campground that night.

Snow School

Day 3 July 16: We woke up early, ate breakfast, and packed our backpacks for the climb. The pack weight on average was about 65 lbs. We started our hike up at 9 AM. The hike to Glacier Basin Camp was a breeze. But the terrain got really steep past the trail that ends at the Glacier Basin Camp. We roped up here.

Start of the trek

Wildflowers

We went up to the top of Inter Glacier as a rope team. There we had to walk on the rocks and then go down to glacier, walk across the glacier then up, to reach Camp Schurman.

Selfie at lunch break

Going up the Inter Glacier

Once we reached the camp, we built tent platforms to set up our mountaineering tents; some members started melting snow and boiling water for cooking and drinking.

Making tent platforms above the clouds at Camp Schurman

Day 4 July 17: We took a rest day and prepared ourselves mentally and physically for an early morning summit push.

Our tent with the view in the morning

Day 5 July 18: The toughest day of the climb. We got up at 12:30 AM, got ready and started heading up towards the summit at 1:45 AM. Five of us decided to push for the summit while others decided that Camp Schurmen would be their highest point. Since we were unguided, self supported climbers, if anyone is unable to reach the summit, the entire group would have to turn around.

Started the climb in the dark with our headlamps on

Sunrise on the way up

Standing tall on the summit

Summit Register (Open)

Summit Register (Closed)

People arriving via Disappointment Cleaver have to walk across the crater rim to reach the true summit

Once we reached the summit, we took our summit photos, signed the register, took a break to eat and drink, then started heading down. Once back at the camp, we took about an hour rest, then packed up, and headed back down on the same day. On the way down, we were able to glissade down part of Inter Glacier. Once back on the trail, we hiked the rest of the way at our own pace, and met everyone at White River Campground for the night.

Glissading on the Inter Glacier

Day 6 July 19: I came back to Seattle and prepared for my trip to Alaska from there :).

I explored downtown and visited the Seattle Space Needle

What’s Next: I am going back to Seattle in August 2017 to attend a Six Day Mountaineering Training Course.